single speed bikes

the Fall Moab trips and I didn't want to ruin the experience by riding a new ride that didn't work out. There are four main differences between my bike and Elden's bike: 4. Different pedals - Elden's Time pedals are a little more difficult to clip into and out of than my Speedplays. Within fifteen minutes of the first ride. I stalled while going up a ledge couldn't cut out and cut 8 feet onto my back. I had a headache the rest of the weekend but it's always fun to claim you're "concussed." One of the reasons I didn't want to ride a singlespeed bike was because of an investigate I did a few years ago. While on my geared bike. I rode side-by-side with Dug and shifted until we pedaled the same revolutions and speed. I ended up in the middle ring and fifth or sixth gear and there's no way I wanted to displace that gear all day. What I didn't realize is that I was comparing apples and oranges. Having multiple gears comes with a price -- the drivetrain absorbs some of your energy and the bike is heavier. When you're riding a singlespeed the gear you're pushing is much easier than its standard mountain bike equivalent. This means you have more When you go a singlespeed you have to get used to going abstain over obstacles and going easy on the brakes. The bigger wheels and higher speeds accept you to roll over obstacles that catch bikes with smaller wheels. This is perfect for riding in Southern Utah. There are some moves -- especially drops -- that I can do on a singlespeed but not on a standard mountain ride. When you want to ride fast drink a long hill you spin out. Also certain moves can't be done on a singlespeed and that's frustrating. Any difficult move in which you lose all your speed and have to pedal up a center be has to go unconquered (this can also be a benefit in that certain moves that we've mastered on a geared ride have now come back into play on a singlespeed). Also the larger wheels make tight turns more difficult -- a definite contradict for riding in the Northwest. I am going to purchase Elden's extra singlespeed bike for all Southern Utah riding and I'm going to convert my old backup Stumpjumper into a singlespeed for riding in Seattle. It'll undergo the same small wheels but I'll replace the old suspension lift with a rigid fork.

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http://bob-weblog.blogspot.com/2007/11/singlespeed-bikes.html

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Random bike setup tech notes.... I tried something a little different this year. I put the 100mm fork onto the hardtail. My hardtail was built about 10 years ago and has a steepish head tube 71.5 and was built around a 70mm fork. This prooved to be a super quick telepathic combination until you made a mistake or got tired. And on terrain like Brush that can happen a lot. Since then I put a Black 80mm SPV on it and it has felt really good. Nice manners but still quick. I've been wanting to try a 100mm on it to make it more of an all around setup for some of the bigger downhills like Beast and Old Farm while hoping that it can still climb and single track. The 100mm fork has about and 1" taller Axle to Crown A/C compared to the 80mm so I dropped 1" of spacers. Just sitting on the bike felt ok not too tall. Steering was slower it required a lot more hip action muscling to get the bike to corner. But it was also more stable. Climbing wasn't too bad but it did require more body english to keep the front wheel down. A good thing was it forced me to get better at the 'floating' type of pedaling where you float your butt right above the tip of the saddle in order to maintain the precious balance bewteen keep the front wheel tracking on the ground and maintaining traction in the rear. I was able to climb some stuff that I hadn't in a while. Those cleans weren't because of the bike it was because of better positioning. But overall. I didn't really like the 100mm on there. Maybe the head angle got to be too slack or maybe it just wasn't designed for that big a fork. For whatever reason it just didn't feel balanced or right. I'm still not giving up on a 100mm fork/hardtail. I think that a more modern geometry hardtail specifically designed around a 100mm fork might still be a really good bike for this terrain. Maybe a 71degree head tube/73 degree seat tube built around a 100mm? Anyway it just felt like I was doing a disservice to the hardtail by not playing to it's stengths which are quick accelerations and quick handling. It rides pretty well with the 80mm fork and downhills better than you'd think compared to a XC dually. So I put it back on the Azure. Which brings up my second topic: falling in and out of love with the Azure once or twice a year. I've seen this pattern emerge with my dually vs the hardtail. Where I lose the love for it a little and feel like it might not be better than a hardtail. I'm pretty sure that overall I'm faster on the Azure. It downhills faster in the long run it mitgates against fatigue from trail chatter and it climbs technical terrain very well. The hardtail is slightly faster on smoother climbs and it generates the perception of being faster but my speculation is that it isn't that much faster on certain sections. But I've found that every 6 months or so I have to go through this whole process of getting myself to realize this fact. I think what happens is that over the course of several months of riding the dually is that I start to get a little complacent. And stop 'working' the bike. You know pumping the transitions weighting and unweighting with the bike and just riding aggressive: attacking in stead of just being a passenger. This promotes the feeling that the I am not getting enough out of the dual suspension to overcome the weight penalty of it. So I then go to the hardtail. And am immediately rewarded with instant feedback from each pedal stroke. It just shoots forward up the hill. The handling is a tad quicker so single track carving brings a big smile although it also can bring a face full of dirt too. Riding a hardtail around here forces you to be 'on it' especially on the rocks and chatter and technical climbing. So my riding gets a little more aggressive again. I'm forced to do it. And I start attacking again and riding better. I then go through the requisite steps of thinking of a new hardtail or getting some issues on mine fixed. Specing out parts thinking if I should sell the dually thinking of a Ti hardtail maybe a single speed etc... Start checking out ebay etc.. But the fatigue also starts to set in and I see that I can't keep up on downhills as easily and on climbing I see small loses in speed with each root that I don't have the timing or energy to unweight properly for. And then I'll pull out the Azure again. I'll start from scratch. Go through my whole setup routine for the suspension for the fork and rear shock. Go through the itterative process of setting rebound. And then ride. The aggressiveness from riding the hardtail carries over and I'm rocking and carving and back in love with the Azure again. Just like that until the process repeats itself in another 6 months or so. So conclusion. I love my Azure. I love my hardtail. I need both sometimes. One helps the other. Please remind me of this next time I even think about selling the Azure.

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http://ashwinearl.blogspot.com/2007/11/bike-tech-notes.html

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Random bike setup tech notes.... I tried something a little different this year. I put the 100mm fork onto the hardtail. My hardtail was built about 10 years ago and has a steepish head tube 71.5 and was built around a 70mm fork. This prooved to be a super quick telepathic combination until you made a mistake or got tired. And on terrain like Brush that can happen a lot. Since then I put a Black 80mm SPV on it and it has felt really good. Nice manners but still quick. I've been wanting to try a 100mm on it to make it more of an all around setup for some of the bigger downhills like Beast and Old Farm while hoping that it can still climb and single track. The 100mm fork has about and 1" taller Axle to Crown A/C compared to the 80mm so I dropped 1" of spacers. Just sitting on the bike felt ok not too tall. Steering was slower it required a lot more hip action muscling to get the bike to corner. But it was also more stable. Climbing wasn't too bad but it did require more body english to keep the front wheel down. A good thing was it forced me to get better at the 'floating' type of pedaling where you float your butt right above the tip of the saddle in order to maintain the precious balance bewteen keep the front wheel tracking on the ground and maintaining traction in the rear. I was able to climb some stuff that I hadn't in a while. Those cleans weren't because of the bike it was because of better positioning. But overall. I didn't really like the 100mm on there. Maybe the head angle got to be too slack or maybe it just wasn't designed for that big a fork. For whatever reason it just didn't feel balanced or right. I'm still not giving up on a 100mm fork/hardtail. I think that a more modern geometry hardtail specifically designed around a 100mm fork might still be a really good bike for this terrain. Maybe a 71degree head tube/73 degree seat tube built around a 100mm? Anyway it just felt like I was doing a disservice to the hardtail by not playing to it's stengths which are quick accelerations and quick handling. It rides pretty well with the 80mm fork and downhills better than you'd think compared to a XC dually. So I put it back on the Azure. Which brings up my second topic: falling in and out of love with the Azure once or twice a year. I've seen this pattern emerge with my dually vs the hardtail. Where I lose the love for it a little and feel like it might not be better than a hardtail. I'm pretty sure that overall I'm faster on the Azure. It downhills faster in the long run it mitgates against fatigue from trail chatter and it climbs technical terrain very well. The hardtail is slightly faster on smoother climbs and it generates the perception of being faster but my speculation is that it isn't that much faster on certain sections. But I've found that every 6 months or so I have to go through this whole process of getting myself to realize this fact. I think what happens is that over the course of several months of riding the dually is that I start to get a little complacent. And stop 'working' the bike. You know pumping the transitions weighting and unweighting with the bike and just riding aggressive: attacking in stead of just being a passenger. This promotes the feeling that the I am not getting enough out of the dual suspension to overcome the weight penalty of it. So I then go to the hardtail. And am immediately rewarded with instant feedback from each pedal stroke. It just shoots forward up the hill. The handling is a tad quicker so single track carving brings a big smile although it also can bring a face full of dirt too. Riding a hardtail around here forces you to be 'on it' especially on the rocks and chatter and technical climbing. So my riding gets a little more aggressive again. I'm forced to do it. And I start attacking again and riding better. I then go through the requisite steps of thinking of a new hardtail or getting some issues on mine fixed. Specing out parts thinking if I should sell the dually thinking of a Ti hardtail maybe a single speed etc... Start checking out ebay etc.. But the fatigue also starts to set in and I see that I can't keep up on downhills as easily and on climbing I see small loses in speed with each root that I don't have the timing or energy to unweight properly for. And then I'll pull out the Azure again. I'll start from scratch. Go through my whole setup routine for the suspension for the fork and rear shock. Go through the itterative process of setting rebound. And then ride. The aggressiveness from riding the hardtail carries over and I'm rocking and carving and back in love with the Azure again. Just like that until the process repeats itself in another 6 months or so. So conclusion. I love my Azure. I love my hardtail. I need both sometimes. One helps the other. Please remind me of this next time I even think about selling the Azure.

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Related article:
http://ashwinearl.blogspot.com/2007/11/bike-tech-notes.html

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Random bike setup tech notes.... I tried something a little different this year. I put the 100mm fork onto the hardtail. My hardtail was built about 10 years ago and has a steepish head tube 71.5 and was built around a 70mm fork. This prooved to be a super quick telepathic combination until you made a mistake or got tired. And on terrain like Brush that can happen a lot. Since then I put a Black 80mm SPV on it and it has felt really good. Nice manners but still quick. I've been wanting to try a 100mm on it to make it more of an all around setup for some of the bigger downhills like Beast and Old Farm while hoping that it can still climb and single track. The 100mm fork has about and 1" taller Axle to Crown A/C compared to the 80mm so I dropped 1" of spacers. Just sitting on the bike felt ok not too tall. Steering was slower it required a lot more hip action muscling to get the bike to corner. But it was also more stable. Climbing wasn't too bad but it did require more body english to keep the front wheel down. A good thing was it forced me to get better at the 'floating' type of pedaling where you float your butt right above the tip of the saddle in order to maintain the precious balance bewteen keep the front wheel tracking on the ground and maintaining traction in the rear. I was able to climb some stuff that I hadn't in a while. Those cleans weren't because of the bike it was because of better positioning. But overall. I didn't really like the 100mm on there. Maybe the head angle got to be too slack or maybe it just wasn't designed for that big a fork. For whatever reason it just didn't feel balanced or right. I'm still not giving up on a 100mm fork/hardtail. I think that a more modern geometry hardtail specifically designed around a 100mm fork might still be a really good bike for this terrain. Maybe a 71degree head tube/73 degree seat tube built around a 100mm? Anyway it just felt like I was doing a disservice to the hardtail by not playing to it's stengths which are quick accelerations and quick handling. It rides pretty well with the 80mm fork and downhills better than you'd think compared to a XC dually. So I put it back on the Azure. Which brings up my second topic: falling in and out of love with the Azure once or twice a year. I've seen this pattern emerge with my dually vs the hardtail. Where I lose the love for it a little and feel like it might not be better than a hardtail. I'm pretty sure that overall I'm faster on the Azure. It downhills faster in the long run it mitgates against fatigue from trail chatter and it climbs technical terrain very well. The hardtail is slightly faster on smoother climbs and it generates the perception of being faster but my speculation is that it isn't that much faster on certain sections. But I've found that every 6 months or so I have to go through this whole process of getting myself to realize this fact. I think what happens is that over the course of several months of riding the dually is that I start to get a little complacent. And stop 'working' the bike. You know pumping the transitions weighting and unweighting with the bike and just riding aggressive: attacking in stead of just being a passenger. This promotes the feeling that the I am not getting enough out of the dual suspension to overcome the weight penalty of it. So I then go to the hardtail. And am immediately rewarded with instant feedback from each pedal stroke. It just shoots forward up the hill. The handling is a tad quicker so single track carving brings a big smile although it also can bring a face full of dirt too. Riding a hardtail around here forces you to be 'on it' especially on the rocks and chatter and technical climbing. So my riding gets a little more aggressive again. I'm forced to do it. And I start attacking again and riding better. I then go through the requisite steps of thinking of a new hardtail or getting some issues on mine fixed. Specing out parts thinking if I should sell the dually thinking of a Ti hardtail maybe a single speed etc... Start checking out ebay etc.. But the fatigue also starts to set in and I see that I can't keep up on downhills as easily and on climbing I see small loses in speed with each root that I don't have the timing or energy to unweight properly for. And then I'll pull out the Azure again. I'll start from scratch. Go through my whole setup routine for the suspension for the fork and rear shock. Go through the itterative process of setting rebound. And then ride. The aggressiveness from riding the hardtail carries over and I'm rocking and carving and back in love with the Azure again. Just like that until the process repeats itself in another 6 months or so. So conclusion. I love my Azure. I love my hardtail. I need both sometimes. One helps the other. Please remind me of this next time I even think about selling the Azure.

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http://ashwinearl.blogspot.com/2007/11/bike-tech-notes.html

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Eclectic Home was out and about with manufacturing partner this time to cyclocross. Portland's world famous Cross Crusade was host to the Single Speed Cyclocross World Championship and we were there to alter sure that racers and spectators had a nice sustainable place to sit and check the race. Perfect weather and a beautiful course made for a very fun weekend. Of course it was all work except for my feeble attempt to qualify for the big event. I really like the notion of cross marketing (no pun intended). Most people really do not expect to see a furniture store display at a bike race. But really now. I know that all those participants have to hang their helmets somewhere during the week and once you have all your bike gear where else are you going to spend your money. So now we have a bunch of beautiful Maku furniture that has been lightly used. Stop by the store for some incredible deals on Maku-it is single speed approved.

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attach built up in this week. There are lots of ride geek details to overlap and I’ll adjoin what I can and add a jaunt report from Texas this weekend. One of specialities is travel bikes and attach has traveled with them more than 30 times all over the world in various configurations. From Mark’s undergo. Davidson’s direction and creative input from me we began working the in May of this year. The Modal is a jaunt ride that folds and toggles between single fixed and geared modes. The concept isn’t presenting anything particularly new but gathers various parts and ideas into a unique ride that I can travel with and ride in a city or a long journey. The bike switches modes with a back up set of bars and cable split-stops. As our readers know we’re into folding bikes and. The Modal is a different bike for a different purpose. I’m using it for longer rides and trips when I want a full road bike. For business trips and urban mobility the Dahons are outstanding. There are tradeoffs. Where the Dahon is heavier than the Modal the Modal inspect is heavier and jaunt weight is about the same at. I’ve also traveled with and the drawback to those is TSA and airline reliability. It’s very liberating (both in measure and money) to analyse a bike as luggage and not have to wait for oversize to go out wish that it wasn’t crushed and that TSA didn’t. For the Modal to work it’s built as a road ride with two sets of bars: one has shifters and other just brakes. I’m simply removing the derailleur releasing the arrange master link swapping out the Paragon changing the bar and connecting the cable stops. After a few adjustments the ride is ready to go. The beauty of a single speed when traveling is fast straighten go around in and out. There’s also very little to end in transit. Actually it’s a Salsa “Crossing follow” cyclocross chainring follow. Rather than use the Reynolds expanding headset close. I epoxied in a machine aluminium sleeve with M5 threads so that the standard Aheadset cap could be used. The plugs can slip over time especially if you end up disassembling the headset/stem often. As it is now the steerer is also reinforced better than the plug would have done. The spacer kit that I got allows Byron to use a Shimano BMX cassette cog onto the normal 8/9/10-speed cassette be. It also allowed me to book adjust the chainline. Andrew: that is a disc tab but I recommend against disc brakes for travel bikes. Disc rotors don’t case well require additional tools get bent in shipping or all of the above. Besides it’s 130mm spaceing and most disc hubs are 135mm. That’s a and they’re available at in Seattle. Call or email ask for Bill and he’ll be happy to tell you all about the bike. I just got back from the first Modal evaluate ride. I’ll gather my thoughts and post a bit later. Quick summary is an very impressive ride with an outstanding ride. We rode from downtown San Antonio to a lake and approve - 3 hours round trip. The ride was very relaxed. we did go with the 39 go for simplicity but for my travel bike i actually have two cranks: 1) 170mm 53/39 for geared road riding and 2) 165mm 42t with go across guard for fixie road riding. If necessary. I could steal a real DA track crank off my primary track bike if i actually wanted to race on the velodrome with my travel ride. one thing that byron and i decided on was that there was no be for his bike to be velodrome legal as such i didn’t design the bike with a high bottom bracket and anyways the paragon dropouts are track legal my own bike has track drop outs with a derailleur hanger and i use a 130mm width track hub. byron’s bike would be fine for fixie riding on the road but there’s a greater chance of grinding a ride. What I open was that a single speed is a lot desire not kitting up when riding the Bettie. I’m just relaxed and riding focusing on my cadence adding power here backing off there. I also entangle different road sensations. That’s mostly the frame but I think the single speed must change the vibrations from the tire to the go around and into your legs. It was like I aws more connected to the ride and road. Another move we’re going to try is with two lie arrange rings. As you read in many of my reviews. I be on a very steep hill probably 20% and I personally think it’s stupid to go that hill on a bike. If I can emit up it in the 39 x 16 great. If not the Melvin with two gears may do it. The create by mental act direction is less about single speed and more about convenience simplicity and minimalism. But minimalism loses it functionality when you can’t climb hills. We talked at length about internally-geared but didn’t be the weight and finickiness. Makes ya think well geez that old campy had a kick coat to alter gears. Two speeds would be nice if the Melvin works. Cruising and climbing. actually no since the slider dropouts make for slow retensioning of the arrange also you really be to make the dropout fixing bolts tight so roadside re-adjustments are kinda discouraged for this cerebrate multiple cogs or double-sided single-speed hubs are impractical. we could undergo gone with paragon’s track dropouts with derailleur hanger rather than the “slider” type (similar to my brace Sycip “Modal” with Surly dropouts) but that would undergo made removing/inserting the rear wheel painfully awkward in the geared configuration because of the straighten exit go with the derailleur in the way byron and i talked it out and we chose to free the versatility of the single-speed mode for greater go of use in the geared mode. That’s what the Melvin was mentioned above and I don’t know if that’s a good idea or would change surface work. It seems sketch at best. I did arise up the forge a hard grunt but the 39 x 16 worked. What would be nice here in the design is a accommodate spread for cruising and climbing if I wanted to ride a longer time in a hillier locale. There’s a sweet spot btw for a lightweight internally-geared hub with 3 gears tops belt driven even …

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http://bikehugger.com/2007/11/single_speed_mode.htm

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Mark built up in this week. There are lots of bike geek details to overlap and I’ll cover what I can and add a jaunt report from Texas this weekend. One of specialities is travel bikes and Mark has traveled with them more than 30 times all over the world in various configurations. From Mark’s undergo. Davidson’s direction and creative enter from me we began working the in May of this year. The Modal is a jaunt ride that folds and toggles between single fixed and geared modes. The concept isn’t presenting anything particularly new but gathers various parts and ideas into a unique ride that I can jaunt with and go in a city or a long journey. The bike switches modes with a back up set of bars and cable split-stops. As our readers know we’re into folding bikes and. The Modal is a different bike for a different purpose. I’m using it for longer rides and trips when I want a beat road bike. For business trips and urban mobility the Dahons are outstanding. There are tradeoffs. Where the Dahon is heavier than the Modal the Modal inspect is heavier and travel weight is about the same at. I’ve also traveled with and the drawback to those is TSA and airline reliability. It’s very liberating (both in time and money) to analyse a bike as luggage and not undergo to act for oversize to come out wish that it wasn’t crushed and that TSA didn’t. For the Modal to bring home the bacon it’s built as a road bike with two sets of bars: one has shifters and other just brakes. I’m simply removing the derailleur releasing the arrange master link swapping out the Paragon changing the bar and connecting the cable stops. After a few adjustments the bike is ready to ride. The beauty of a single speed when traveling is abstain straighten go around in and out. There’s also very little to break in transit. Actually it’s a Salsa “Crossing Guard” cyclocross chainring guard. Rather than use the Reynolds expanding headset close. I epoxied in a forge aluminium sleeve with M5 threads so that the standard Aheadset cap could be used. The plugs can slip over measure especially if you end up disassembling the headset/originate in often. As it is now the steerer is also reinforced better than the close would undergo done. The spacer kit that I got allows Byron to use a Shimano BMX cassette cog onto the normal 8/9/10-speed cassette be. It also allowed me to fine tune the chainline. Andrew: that is a disc tab but I advise against disc brakes for travel bikes. Disc rotors don’t case well demand additional tools get bent in shipping or all of the above. Besides it’s 130mm spaceing and most disc hubs are 135mm. That’s a and they’re available at in Seattle. label or email ask for Bill and he’ll be happy to tell you all about the ride. I just got back from the first Modal test go. I’ll gather my thoughts and post a bit later. Quick summary is an very impressive bike with an outstanding ride. We rode from downtown San Antonio to a lake and back - 3 hours go move. The ride was very relaxed. we did go with the 39 go for simplicity but for my jaunt ride i actually have two cranks: 1) 170mm 53/39 for geared road riding and 2) 165mm 42t with cross guard for fixie road riding. If necessary. I could steal a real DA track crank off my primary track bike if i actually wanted to go on the velodrome with my travel bike. one thing that byron and i decided on was that there was no be for his bike to be velodrome legal as such i didn’t create by mental act the bike with a high bottom bracket and anyways the paragon dropouts are track legal my own ride has bring in displace outs with a derailleur hanger and i use a 130mm width bring in hub. byron’s bike would be fine for fixie riding on the road but there’s a greater chance of grinding a pedal. What I found was that a single speed is a lot desire not kitting up when riding the Bettie. I’m just relaxed and riding focusing on my cadence adding cater here backing off there. I also felt different road sensations. That’s mostly the frame but I evaluate the single speed must change the vibrations from the degenerate to the wheel and into your legs. It was like I aws more connected to the bike and road. Another part we’re going to try is with two lie chain rings. As you construe in many of my reviews. I live on a very center hill probably 20% and I personally think it’s stupid to go that hill on a ride. If I can grunt up it in the 39 x 16 great. If not the Melvin with two gears may do it. The create by mental act direction is less about single speed and more about convenience simplicity and minimalism. But minimalism loses it functionality when you can’t arise hills. We talked at length about internally-geared but didn’t want the weight and finickiness. Makes ya think well geez that old campy had a impel plate to alter gears. Two speeds would be nice if the Melvin works. Cruising and climbing. actually no since the slider dropouts make for decrease retensioning of the chain also you really want to alter the dropout fixing bolts tight so roadside re-adjustments are kinda discouraged for this cerebrate multiple cogs or double-sided single-speed hubs are impractical. we could have gone with paragon’s track dropouts with derailleur hanger rather than the “slider” type (similar to my steel Sycip “Modal” with Surly dropouts) but that would undergo made removing/inserting the straighten wheel painfully awkward in the geared configuration because of the rear move angle with the derailleur in the way byron and i talked it out and we chose to free the versatility of the single-speed mode for greater ease of use in the geared mode. That’s what the Melvin was mentioned above and I don’t know if that’s a good idea or would change surface bring home the bacon. It seems sketch at best. I did climb up the forge a hard emit but the 39 x 16 worked. What would be nice here in the design is a accommodate move for cruising and climbing if I wanted to ride a longer time in a hillier locale. There’s a sweet spot btw for a lightweight internally-geared hub with 3 gears tops belt driven even …

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Related article:
http://bikehugger.com/2007/11/single_speed_mode.htm

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Mark built up in this week. There are lots of ride geek details to overlap and I’ll cover what I can and add a jaunt inform from Texas this pass. One of specialities is travel bikes and Mark has traveled with them more than 30 times all over the world in various configurations. From Mark’s undergo. Davidson’s direction and creative enter from me we began working the in May of this year. The Modal is a travel bike that folds and toggles between single fixed and geared modes. The concept isn’t presenting anything particularly new but gathers various parts and ideas into a unique ride that I can travel with and ride in a city or a desire journey. The ride switches modes with a second set of bars and cable split-stops. As our readers know we’re into folding bikes and. The Modal is a different bike for a different purpose. I’m using it for longer rides and trips when I be a full road bike. For business trips and urban mobility the Dahons are outstanding. There are tradeoffs. Where the Dahon is heavier than the Modal the Modal case is heavier and jaunt charge is about the same at. I’ve also traveled with and the drawback to those is TSA and airline reliability. It’s very liberating (both in time and money) to analyse a ride as luggage and not have to act for oversize to come out wish that it wasn’t crushed and that TSA didn’t. For the Modal to bring home the bacon it’s built as a road bike with two sets of bars: one has shifters and other just brakes. I’m simply removing the derailleur releasing the chain know link swapping out the Paragon changing the bar and connecting the cable stops. After a few adjustments the bike is ready to go. The beauty of a single speed when traveling is abstain rear wheel in and out. There’s also very little to end in transit. Actually it’s a Salsa “Crossing Guard” cyclocross chainring guard. Rather than use the Reynolds expanding headset plug. I epoxied in a machine aluminium sleeve with M5 threads so that the standard Aheadset cap could be used. The plugs can slip over time especially if you end up disassembling the headset/originate in often. As it is now the steerer is also reinforced exceed than the plug would have done. The spacer kit that I got allows Byron to use a Shimano BMX cassette cog onto the normal 8/9/10-speed cassette be. It also allowed me to book tune the chainline. Andrew: that is a disc tab but I recommend against disc brakes for travel bikes. Disc rotors don’t case come up require additional tools get bent in shipping or all of the above. Besides it’s 130mm spaceing and most disc hubs are 135mm. That’s a and they’re available at in Seattle. Call or email ask for account and he’ll be happy to express you all about the bike. I just got back from the first Modal test ride. I’ll interact my thoughts and post a bit later. Quick summary is an very impressive bike with an outstanding ride. We rode from downtown San Antonio to a lake and back - 3 hours round move. The ride was very relaxed. we did go with the 39 ring for simplicity but for my travel ride i actually undergo two cranks: 1) 170mm 53/39 for geared road riding and 2) 165mm 42t with cross guard for fixie road riding. If necessary. I could take a real DA track go off my primary bring in ride if i actually wanted to go on the velodrome with my travel bike. one thing that byron and i decided on was that there was no be for his bike to be velodrome legal as such i didn’t design the ride with a high bottom hold and anyways the paragon dropouts are bring in legal my own bike has track drop outs with a derailleur hanger and i use a 130mm width bring in hub. byron’s bike would be fine for fixie riding on the road but there’s a greater chance of grinding a pedal. What I found was that a single speed is a lot like not kitting up when riding the Bettie. I’m just relaxed and riding focusing on my cadence adding cater here backing off there. I also felt different road sensations. That’s mostly the frame but I think the single speed must dress the vibrations from the tire to the wheel and into your legs. It was desire I aws more connected to the bike and road. Another part we’re going to try is with two lie arrange rings. As you read in many of my reviews. I live on a very center hill probably 20% and I personally think it’s stupid to walk that forge on a bike. If I can grunt up it in the 39 x 16 great. If not the Melvin with two gears may do it. The design direction is less about single speed and more about convenience simplicity and minimalism. But minimalism loses it functionality when you can’t arise hills. We talked at length about internally-geared but didn’t be the charge and finickiness. Makes ya think well geez that old campy had a impel coat to shift gears. Two speeds would be nice if the Melvin works. Cruising and climbing. actually no since the slider dropouts make for decrease retensioning of the chain also you really be to alter the dropout fixing bolts tight so roadside re-adjustments are kinda discouraged for this cerebrate multiple cogs or double-sided single-speed hubs are impractical. we could undergo gone with paragon’s bring in dropouts with derailleur hanger rather than the “slider” write (similar to my steel Sycip “Modal” with Surly dropouts) but that would have made removing/inserting the straighten wheel painfully awkward in the geared configuration because of the rear move go with the derailleur in the way byron and i talked it out and we chose to sacrifice the versatility of the single-speed mode for greater ease of use in the geared mode. That’s what the Melvin was mentioned above and I don’t experience if that’s a good idea or would even bring home the bacon. It seems draw at best. I did climb up the hill a hard grunt but the 39 x 16 worked. What would be nice here in the design is a gear spread for cruising and climbing if I wanted to go a longer measure in a hillier locale. There’s a sweet spot btw for a lightweight internally-geared hub with 3 gears tops sing driven change surface …

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Now it's primary funtion ordain be winter commuting. Anyway. I have to get on the stick here and fix her up because the snow is on the way and the Monkey is in pieces. Four winters and I thought. "Ya know. I probably should tear into this and take a look at how things are going." Well it was about measure. I'll tell ya that much! The bottom bracket is still seized up in the frame. No worries really. It's a UN-53 cartridge style BB and is smooth and knock remove yet. However; I'd still desire to break it free! The Cooks Brothers cranks need a new chainwheel and that hidden chainring move is giving me fits. I'll have to act the spider off but...... . the spider fixing move is stuck! Well. I've got a intend for that. I just have not gotten around to it yet. So a disunite down inspect the insides of the tubes on the frame new headset new cogs and a new arrange. Oh yeah! Did I mention that I robbed the brakes off of this for another project. No? Umm....... I'll be needing those too! Anyway. They will be disc units. Also the Paul Word hubs/Alex TD-17 wheelset went to Captain Bob for a single speed project he has going on. I gave them to him since the bearings were feeling less than smooth in the hubs. These are what I'm replacing the old wheel set with. Surly "Jim cook" hubs laced to a custom powder coated Velocity Deep V pair of rims. The Deep V rims shouldn't collect a ton of snow in deeper drifts and I can run skinnys or fatties on them. 45mm studded tires or 2.1"s for slop. I'll still be going single speed obviously. I'll still undergo the drop bar set up too. Can't get away from my years of tweaking my posistion on this ride! I might even get a rack for the approve of this one too. It would be nice to ditch the bags on my back everyday for a change. That's about it for the set up. Now I just undergo to get it completed!I just realized that with these wheels and the Karate Monkey's Campstove Green paint it will sort of look like woodland camo. Hmm.......... maybe I'll have to play off of that a bit with my components and accesories. I'll be posting pictures of the completed rig hopefully soon. It's up on the front burner now!

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Opening hours: 0900 - 1600 Mon -Fri. Please telephone Property Office (01271 335224) prior to attendance toarrange suitable collection time. 24hrs notice would be appreciated. On arrival report to thePolice displace Enquiry Office in first instance. All collections needto be made within 14 days of payment items not collected maybe relisted as perBumblebee's Terms and Conditions :Please say without exception all pedal cycles sold on this auction site by Devon& Cornwall police are for collection only. Childs Probike Krusher Cycle. color/Black. 10" Frame. Dual Suspension. hit Speed. Stabilisers. Good condition - location Barnstaple These goods being auctioned are second hand unless stated otherwise. The police force that listed the item and Bumblebee Auctions claim no responsibility for the authenticity commercial value or quality of any of the items sold through these Police Auctions. These goods are being auctioned on a 'Sold as Seen' basis. The working condition of these items are not determined. If you are the owner of this item you can relist this item by clicking the link below. When you relist an item you cannot make any changes to the item call or description. If you need to make any changes you should not relist the item but rather use the Add an Auctionfeature to add it again.

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